Why do surface waves break along the shore?

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asked May 8, 2022 209k views

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Melodic · Answer 1 · 2022-05-12T20:36:59+0000

As waves reach the shore, the energy in front of the wave slows down due to friction with the shallow bottom. ... The wave breaks, and it usually does so in water depth that is 1.3 times the wave height.

Why do surface waves break along the shore?

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Why do surface waves break along the shore?