Question

What happens when a deep water wave enters shallow water?

Answer 1

"When a wave from the deep water enters shallow water the orbit of water molecules interact with the bottom. Friction causes the circular orbit to form an ellipse. The top of the wave is travelling faster than the bottom."

Answer 2

When a wave from the deep water enters shallow water the orbit of water molecules interact with the bottom. Friction causes the circular orbit to form an ellipse. The top of the wave is travelling faster than the bottom.